Glossary

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advection fog
Fog that forms when warm moist air moves over a cooler surface and is cooled from below to the point of saturation and condensation.

angle of deflection
The amount of deflection of the horizontal wind component from geostrophic balance due primarily to frictional effects in the surface boundary layer. This angle can vary from 20 to 40 degrees to the left of the isobar, depending on the surface roughness, and results in flow across isobars from high to low pressure.

arctic sea smoke
Fog that forms when cold air moves over a much warmer water surface (a differential typically being at least 15 degrees F between the two surfaces), causing considerable amounts of water vapor to enter the adjacent air to the point of saturation and condensation. Same as steam fog.

bathymetry
The study of water depths or the form of the bottom surface of a body of water.

Beaufort wind scale
A method of estimating wind speed based on the roughness or condition of the sea (i.e., sea state) or on the motion of objects on land.

brightness
Refers in satellite imaging to the amount of light being reflected by cloud tops in a visible image or to cloud-top temperature in infrared images. Brightness is considered higher when the reflection appears white and lower when the reflection appears dark gray or black. Brightness is measured in digital counts.

Catalina eddy
A localized atmospheric circulation occurring near Santa Catalina Island and over the Gulf of Santa Catalina off the coast of Southern California. Due to coastal topography, winds blowing offshore from the Los Angeles region create an eddy resulting in onshore flow in the vicinity of San Diego. Offshore subsidence dissipates fog over Santa Catalina Island while it increases fog along the San Diego coastline.

centrifugal force
An apparent force in a rotating system, deflecting masses radially outward from the axis of rotation. Its magnitude can be expressed as V2/R, where R is the radius of curvature of the path and V is the linear speed of the particle. Per unit mass, this force is equal and opposite to the centripetal acceleration.

centripetal acceleration
The acceleration of a particle moving in a curved path directed toward the instantaneous center of curvature of the path. Its magnitude can be expressed as V2/R, where R is the radius of curvature of the path and V is the velocity of the particle. Per unit mass, this acceleration is equal and opposite to the centrifugal force.

coastal-marine automated network (C-MAN)
A network of marine weather observation sites.

cold upwelling
The rising of cold water toward the surface from the subsurface layers of a body of water. Upwelling is most prominent where persistent winds blow parallel to the coast (e.g., along the West Coast of the United States), causing the current to set away from the coast. Water from subsurface layers must then rise to the surface near the coast to replace the water being driven away. See upwelling.

Coriolis force
A deflecting force arising solely from the earth's rotation. This force is normal to the particle velocity, to the right in the Northern Hemisphere and to the left in the Southern Hemisphere.

deep water wave
A wave with a length less than two times the water depth.

digital counts
The assignment of a number in measuring the brightness of a cloud top. The numbers range from 0 for black to 255 for the brightest white.

dry adiabatic lapse rate
The rate of temperature decrease with height of a parcel of dry air lifted adiabatically through the atmosphere where gravity and the pressure gradient force are in balance (hydrostatic equilibrium). This rate equals 9.67 degrees C/km (5.4 degrees F/1000 ft).

dry adiabatic layer
A layer of the atmosphere in which the lapse rate is equal to the dry adiabatic lapse rate throughout the entire layer.

dual channel differencing
A technique used to detect the extent of a fog layer at night on GOES (geostationary operational environmental satellite) by which differences in cloud radiance (temperature) are registered by two infrared channels. A long-wave IR (11.0 microns) and a short-wave IR (3.9 microns) capture vertical temperature differences within the layer of fog.

eddy viscosity
The turbulent transfer of momentum by eddies, giving rise to an internal fluid friction.

effective conductivity
A measurement of the ability of a fluid to transport heat throughout the fluid or within a layer through conduction processes.

Ekman layer
The layer of transition between the surface boundary layer, where the shearing stress is constant, and the free atmosphere, where the atmosphere is in approximate geostrophic balance.

elevated inversion
A region within the atmosphere, suspended above the earth's surface, in which the temperature increases with increasing height.

emissivity
The ratio of the emittance from a surface to the emittance of a body that absorbs all radiation striking it for a given wavelength and at the same temperature.

emittance
A measure of energy radiated per unit time per unit area from an emitting surface.

fetch duration
The amount of time a fetch region with specific wind speed and direction continues over the same ocean surface area.

fetch length
The length of the ocean surface over which wind of a specific speed and direction blows. Fetch length is measured parallel to the wind direction.

fetch region
The area of winds that encompass a wave-generation region. The fetch region has fetch width and fetch length.

first-guess field
A numerical model forecast field derived from a short-range forecast, usually of 6 or 12 hours, and used as an initial analysis field, from which a subsequent model forecast sequence is run.

fog
Condensed water vapor in the atmosphere adjacent to the earth's surface--the condensation resulting either from air being cooled to its saturation point or from water being vaporized into the atmosphere until saturation is reached.

forward scattering
The scattering of electromagnetic energy bounded by a plane perpendicular to the direction of incident radiation where the electromagnetic energy is scattered in the same direction in which it is advancing.

friction velocity
A reference wind velocity that is usually applied to motion near the ground, where shearing stress is often assumed to be independent of height and approximately proportional to the square of the mean wind velocity.

frictional convergence
The tightening (or converging) of a vector wind field due to the resistive force of friction.

geostrophic balance
In the atmosphere, the balance between the horizontal Coriolis force and the horizontal pressure gradient force. The free atmosphere frequently approaches geostrophic balance.

geostrophic wind
The horizontal wind velocity for which the Coriolis acceleration exactly balances the horizontal pressure gradient force. The geostrophic wind is directed along contour lines on a constant pressure surface or along isobars on a geopotential surface.

gradient wind level
Also called the geostrophic wind level. The lowest level at which the flow becomes geostrophic. This level marks the upper limit of frictional influence of the earth's surface.

gradient wind
A horizontal wind velocity blowing tangent to a contour line on a constant pressure surface or to an isobar on a geopotential surface at a particular point. At this point, the Coriolis and centripetal accelerations, together, will exactly balance the horizontal pressure gradient force.

great-circle track
The path that waves (or swells) follow in deep water. The great circle represents a track corresponding to the shortest distance between two points on a sphere.

ground fog
A very shallow fog layer (extending usually no more than a few meters from the ground) that forms when the radiational cooling of the earth's surface cools the immediate air layer to the point of saturation and condensation.

haze
An obstruction to visibility caused by dust, smoke, or pollution particulates suspended in the atmosphere.

heat capacity
The ratio of the heat absorbed or released by a system to the corresponding temperature rise or fall.

ice accretion
The accumulation on objects of freezing precipitation, sea spray, or both.

inversion
A layer within the vertical profile of the atmosphere in which the temperature increases with increasing height or within large bodies of water in which the temperature increases with increasing depth.

isallobaric wind
A horizontal wind directed normal to lines of equal change in pressure (isallobars) toward falling pressure and away from rising pressure, with a magnitude proportional to the strength of the pressure tendency gradient.

isothermal layer
A layer within the vertical profile of the atmosphere in which there is no temperature change with height, or a layer within large bodies of water in which there is no temperature change with depth.

marginal ice edge
The region of sea ice near an open ocean boundary and therefore particularly subject to a number of processes related to ice-oceanic-atmospheric interactions.

maximum combined seas (MCS)
The maximum height of the sea at a location where two or more wave groups or swell groups pass at the same time.

mixed layer
The surface layer of a body of water whose vertical temperature profile is nearly isothermal.

momentum flux
Within a fluid system, such as the atmosphere, the properties of mass and velocity of a particular parcel are at some level capable of being transferred upward or downward through eddies or turbulent mixing processes.

numerical wave model
A numerical model for ocean waves which includes equations for wave growth, propagation, and decay in order to forecast the future state of ocean waves in a specified region.

ocean wind wave
A surface wave generated by wind stress on the ocean surface. Same as wind wave.

parametric model
A type of model that is based on a collection of observations of a phenomenon to which characteristic curves are fit in relation to the variables that produce or affect the phenomenon's characteristics. These curves can then be used to forecast the particular phenomenon of interest based on the value of the variables as input. For example, the wave nomogram is a parametric model for the forecasting of wave heights and periods using the variables of fetch length, wind speed, and wind duration as inputs.

peak period
The period corresponding to the highest peak in the one-dimensional frequency spectrum of the wave field.

planetary boundary layer
Also called the "friction layer." The layer of the atmosphere from the earth's surface to the geostrophic or gradient wind level. It includes the surface boundary layer and the Ekman layer. Above this layer lies the free atmosphere.

plunging breaker
A violently breaking wave in shallow water.

pressure gradient force
The force due to differences of pressure within a fluid mass. The vector force is directed from higher toward lower pressure.

radiance temperature
The concentration of the radiant flux of a body, where radiant flux is defined as energy radiated from a source. Radiance temperature may be measured remotely by sensors that detect electromagnetic radiation in the thermal IR wavelength region.

rogue wave
A single wave crest much higher than usual, caused by constructive interference. Waves of different wavelengths and heights that converge at a point from different directions can form this type of wave which can be three to four times higher than the theoretical maximum wave that could be sustained in a fully developed sea. Sometimes the term rogue wave is used to describe a sudden growth of a wave that encounters a swift opposing current even though this growth is not due to constructive interference. The Agulhas Current off the southeastern tip of Africa is an example of where this occurs. Rogue waves can also be though of as an unexpectedly occurring wave of large height such as the pressure induced wave caused by an atmospheric gravity wave.

roughness parameter
Also called "roughness length." It is a measure of the roughness of a surface over which a fluid is flowing. The roughness of a surface is gauged primarily on the average height of its irregularities.

salinity
A measure of the mass of dissolved salts in one kilogram of sea water--most often expressed as grams of dissolved salts per kilogram of sea water.

sea state
Properties of wind-generated waves on the surface of the sea.

sensible heat flux
The rate of change of sensible heat over a given area, sensible heat being heat that can be felt and measured by a thermometer.

shallow water wave
A wave with a length greater than 20 times the water depth.

shamal
A hot and drynorthwest wind that occasionally occurs in the lower valleys of the Tigris and Euphrates Rivers in southern Iraq, Iran, and Kuwait.

significant wave height (Hs)
The objectively averaged height of the highest one-third of all waves passing a point in the ocean. The wave height subjectively estimated by observers is often very close to Hs.

significant wave period (Ps)
The averaged period of the waves used to compute significant wave height.

spatial
Occurring in space.

spectral wave model
A model using a frequency spectrum through space and time measuring a finite sum of wave components of different length and amplitude.

spilling breaker
A gently breaking wave in shallow water. Water gradually spills over the crest as the wave approaches the shore.

SST
Sea surface temperature.

SST gradient
The change in sea surface temperature (SST) expressed in degrees per unit distance.

steam fog
See arctic sea smoke or fog.

subgradient wind
A wind of lower speed than the gradient wind, caused by the existing pressure gradient and centrifugal forces.

subsidence
Sinking motion of air in the atmosphere.

supergradient wind
A wind of greater speed than the gradient wind, caused by the existing pressure gradient and centrifugal forces.

superstructure icing
The accumulation on a ship's exposed surfaces of freezing precipitation, sea spray, or both.

surface-based inversion
A layer in the atmosphere extending to the earth's surface in which temperature increases with increasing height.

surface boundary layer
Also called "ground layer" or "surface layer." It is a thin layer of air adjacent to the earth's surface extending up to the base of the Ekman layer. Within this layer, the wind distribution is largely determined by the vertical temperature gradient and the nature of the contours of the underlying surface. Shearing stresses are approximately constant throughout the layer.

surging breaker
A surge of wave onto a beach. The wave crest never actually breaks before reaching the beach.

swell
Waves that have moved out of the wind-generation region.

swell forerunner
A long-period swell within a wave group that "outruns" the shorter-period swell and reaches a destination first, giving an initial warning of the swell to follow.

swell travel time
The time necessary for a swell of a specific period to reach a given destination.

temporal
Occurring over a period of time.

trajectory
The path of a particle in motion. In meteorology, trajectories typically refer to air parcels.

upwelling
Refers to a process in bodies of water whereby the lower layers of water rise to the surface, usually resulting in cooler surface water. See cold upwelling.

wave angular spreading
The lateral spreading of wave energy as it moves away from the wave-generation region.

wave celerity (C)
The speed of an individual ocean wave.

wave direction
The direction from which waves travel.

wave dispersion
The phenomenon of wave group components separating according to their wave length and period. Long-period/long-length waves move faster and away from short-period/short-length waves within a given wave group.

wave group velocity (Cg)
The speed of an ensemble of waves propagating through the ocean.

wave growth
The growth of wind waves. Growth is related to wind speed, fetch area, and wind duration.

wave height
The vertical height measured between a wave's trough and its crest.

wave length
The distance between successive wave crests or successive wave troughs.

wave period
The time interval between successive wave-crest or successive wave-trough passage at a fixed point.

wave refraction
Bending or turning of the wave direction as the wave encounters shallow water.

wave shoaling
Changes in wave characteristics as they move from deep to shallow water. As waves encounter shallow water, the wave height increases while the wave length and the velocity decrease because the wave period is conserved in shallow water.

wave spectrum
The distribution of varying wave periods within a wave group.

wave steepness
The measure of the ratio of wave height to wave length.

wave/swell decay
The transformation of wave period and wave height as swells move away from the wave-generation region.

wave water particle motion
The actual movement of individual water particles within a wave.

wind stress
The force of the wind on a given area (in marine meteorology, on the water surface).

wind wave
See ocean wind wave.

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